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Round Italy with a Toddler: Venice and the Veneto

1/22/2015

11 Comments

 
In early December we treated ourselves to a little pre-Christmas getaway to Venice and the Veneto. A long weekend (8 December is a bank holiday in Italy) for the three of us to spend some time together discovering something new, before the intensity of all our Christmas & New Year travels home.

Venice itself had been on my must-see list for years but, shockingly, even after nearly four years of living in Milan I’d never made it there. It’s not the most obvious place to be taking a toddler, but after getting some great advice on twitter (more on that later), we decided to give it a go.

I’m so pleased we did, despite a hair-raising moment when the toddler’s enthusiasm for water got a little out of hand. 
Toddler likes Venice Lagoon
Read on to find how we made sure both the toddler and the adults had a fun three-day break.

(WARNING: This is a very photo-heavy post)

Round Italy with a Toddler: Venice and the Veneto
As we’ve been doing since the Bean was born, we hired a car and drove during his nap times. I’ve written before about how there’s something about having a toddler comatose in the back that makes us, as a couple, just take in the drive and have a bit of catch-up.

Once the Bean was awake we searched for a random town to find a park and some coffee. We happened upon Lonigo, a very pretty and historical town where there happened to be a Christmas market and band: instant toddler entertainment! We spent a very pleasant couple of hours milling around, then carried on driving to our hotel once darkness had set in.
Lonigo Church, Italy
Toddler on stage
Lonigo Christmas market, Italy
We chose to stay at a farm near Venice rather than in the city itself, thinking it’d be easier, cheaper (WAY cheaper) and more relaxed. We chose Il Feudo, an agriturismo-style place that offers both accommodation and excellent home-cooked food. The kind of food that adults like, such as creamy polenta with mushrooms and cured meats, as well as kids (the Bean ate his body weight in pasta al ragù d’asino - donkey! - over the two days). Our room was gigantic and very comfortable, with a cot for the Bean all made up when we arrived. The biggest plus point of it all, though: a friendly dog. Bean heaven.
Il Feudo Agriturismo, Veneto, Italy
Toddler and dog
On Sunday, our second day, we got up early and drove to Padova to get the train to Venice. Driving into Venice yourself is not a good idea - being a lagoonish sort of place it has a few issues with parking. The Bean is usually very good on trains (and very excited), but a piece of pizza as big as his face tends to help too. 
Toddler eating pizza
Thinking of Venice’s reputation for being very expensive, Mr P&P and I also decided to take sandwiches, snacks and water to last the day (although, as Tales & Tours Tips pointed out on twitter, you pay less for your coffee by having it standing up at the bar - "al banco").

Once in Venice it was time to pull out the light-weight buggy and start exploring the back streets rather than braving the main thoroughfare (both great tips by Gretta Schifano of Mums do Travel). It was a lovely, relaxed way to take in a city that is always busy.

Whenever the Bean’d had enough of his buggy, one of us would “do bridges” with him: 
Toddler on Venice bridge
After a few (okay, MANY) ups and down and ups and downs he finally conked out in his buggy. It was time for Mr P&P to get our elbow grease on - I don’t think ‘wheelchair access’ was much of a concept when all those tiny, stepped bridges were concocted - but we still had a lovely afternoon admiring the crazy blue-green of the lagoon, the beautiful architecture, and the quiet snore from the buggy.
Venice canal
Venice architecture
Venice lagoon
When the Bean woke up we went to the Piazza San Marco. Obviously. We didn’t fancy doing the Doge’s Palace, the other big ‘must-see’, with a toddler and his post-nap grouches, but wandering around the Piazza taking pictures, laughing at people’s selfie-sticks and pointing out more boats to the toddler (and more trying to stop him from diving into the water) was great fun for everyone. 

Piazza San Marco, Venice
Piazza San Marco detail
Gondola in Venice, Italy
At this point we found ourselves at the other end of the city to the train station, and so after a long day we followed advice from Cathy Winston of Mummy Travels: take a vaporetto (a water taxi) back. At 7€ per adult these things are pricey, although if you wanted to avoid dragging a buggy over bridges all day you could get a one-day pass for €20 (2, 3 and 7-day passes also exist). Needless to say this was the highlight of the day for the Bean, even though it was by now getting dark and perishing (Venice in winter = cold). 
Toddler and mum on vaporetto
We made it back to Padova, found our car in one piece (we may or may not have found some dodgy bog to stick it in on for the day) and set off back to the warmth and comfort of Il Feudo.

Monday morning was spent offsetting all things city by taking a walk around the premises of our hotel as well as the surrounding countryside. Even in the bareness of late autumn, there is something soothing about rolling hills and neatly lined up vines. 
Veneto tree in autumn
Veneto vines in autumn
Another nap, another drive, then one final stop: Lago d’Iseo. As one of the smaller of the North Italian lakes this was one we hadn’t been to before, but the town we found had everything we needed for a family of three: stunning views, a big park, and gelato. A lot of gelato.
Lago d'Iseo, Italy
Toddler eating ice cream
We had a great weekend, and one I’m proud of too: making sure we see and enjoy as much of Italy while we’re still here is important, and there’s no reason for the toddler to be left out of that. Even if I did have sore arms from wo-manhandling his buggy over all those bridges.

Come say hello: 
11 Comments
Mums do travel link
1/22/2015 08:07:38 am

What a lovely trip. I don't think my kids would eat donkey though! The photos are gorgeous and I'm pleased that my tips helped you.

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Eline @ Pasta & Patchwork link
1/31/2015 01:09:43 pm

I think it helps that he's not yet old enough to care about anything other than the food in front of him ;-)
Thanks again for the tips.

Reply
Donna link
1/22/2015 10:53:29 am

Oh it looks like you had a wonderful time. I have only been to Italy once, to Rome before we had children. It was a wonderful trip, a beautiful city and it left me wanting to explore more of Italy but we are yet to do so x

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Eline @ Pasta & Patchwork link
1/31/2015 01:10:46 pm

Oh Rome is wonderful too, we went there pre-Bean.

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Donna link
1/23/2015 07:23:01 am

You've given me hope that a little break away with my toddler will be possible and enjoyable!!! Your pictures are beautiful x

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Eline @ Pasta & Patchwork link
1/31/2015 01:12:20 pm

It's totally possible and enjoyable! M likes these breaks as much as we do - all he cares about is exploring and whether he gets fed on time :-)

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Carie link
1/23/2015 02:51:30 pm

Oh I love Venice - so many happy memories - we took Kitty there when she was about 7 months old and it was perfect. We went with H's art class and while he painted she and I explored (hurrah for the sling). I loved that it was little enough that I never felt I was missing out because we had to pop back to the hotel for naps or nappys - hopefully one day we'll get to go back!

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Eline @ Pasta & Patchwork link
1/31/2015 01:13:24 pm

I hope you'll get to go back one day too! With a baby in a sling it must've just been perfect.

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Mary
1/24/2015 02:39:15 am

Absolutely beautiful! Looks so relaxing and joyful

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Jo Addison link
1/25/2015 11:42:37 am

Sounds like you had a great weekend in Venice - what a beautiful place to spend a few days. Think my boys would have loved the vaporetta ride the best too - sound fab!

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Louise link
2/11/2015 04:39:33 am

I would love to go to Venice - unfortunately my husband keeps going to all these places with work and without me and the boys!

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