In early December we treated ourselves to a little pre-Christmas getaway to Venice and the Veneto. A long weekend (8 December is a bank holiday in Italy) for the three of us to spend some time together discovering something new, before the intensity of all our Christmas & New Year travels home.
Venice itself had been on my must-see list for years but, shockingly, even after nearly four years of living in Milan I’d never made it there. It’s not the most obvious place to be taking a toddler, but after getting some great advice on twitter (more on that later), we decided to give it a go.
I’m so pleased we did, despite a hair-raising moment when the toddler’s enthusiasm for water got a little out of hand.
Venice itself had been on my must-see list for years but, shockingly, even after nearly four years of living in Milan I’d never made it there. It’s not the most obvious place to be taking a toddler, but after getting some great advice on twitter (more on that later), we decided to give it a go.
I’m so pleased we did, despite a hair-raising moment when the toddler’s enthusiasm for water got a little out of hand.
Read on to find how we made sure both the toddler and the adults had a fun three-day break.
(WARNING: This is a very photo-heavy post)
(WARNING: This is a very photo-heavy post)
Round Italy with a Toddler: Venice and the Veneto
As we’ve been doing since the Bean was born, we hired a car and drove during his nap times. I’ve written before about how there’s something about having a toddler comatose in the back that makes us, as a couple, just take in the drive and have a bit of catch-up.
Once the Bean was awake we searched for a random town to find a park and some coffee. We happened upon Lonigo, a very pretty and historical town where there happened to be a Christmas market and band: instant toddler entertainment! We spent a very pleasant couple of hours milling around, then carried on driving to our hotel once darkness had set in.
Once the Bean was awake we searched for a random town to find a park and some coffee. We happened upon Lonigo, a very pretty and historical town where there happened to be a Christmas market and band: instant toddler entertainment! We spent a very pleasant couple of hours milling around, then carried on driving to our hotel once darkness had set in.
We chose to stay at a farm near Venice rather than in the city itself, thinking it’d be easier, cheaper (WAY cheaper) and more relaxed. We chose Il Feudo, an agriturismo-style place that offers both accommodation and excellent home-cooked food. The kind of food that adults like, such as creamy polenta with mushrooms and cured meats, as well as kids (the Bean ate his body weight in pasta al ragù d’asino - donkey! - over the two days). Our room was gigantic and very comfortable, with a cot for the Bean all made up when we arrived. The biggest plus point of it all, though: a friendly dog. Bean heaven.
On Sunday, our second day, we got up early and drove to Padova to get the train to Venice. Driving into Venice yourself is not a good idea - being a lagoonish sort of place it has a few issues with parking. The Bean is usually very good on trains (and very excited), but a piece of pizza as big as his face tends to help too.
Thinking of Venice’s reputation for being very expensive, Mr P&P and I also decided to take sandwiches, snacks and water to last the day (although, as Tales & Tours Tips pointed out on twitter, you pay less for your coffee by having it standing up at the bar - "al banco").
Once in Venice it was time to pull out the light-weight buggy and start exploring the back streets rather than braving the main thoroughfare (both great tips by Gretta Schifano of Mums do Travel). It was a lovely, relaxed way to take in a city that is always busy.
Whenever the Bean’d had enough of his buggy, one of us would “do bridges” with him:
Once in Venice it was time to pull out the light-weight buggy and start exploring the back streets rather than braving the main thoroughfare (both great tips by Gretta Schifano of Mums do Travel). It was a lovely, relaxed way to take in a city that is always busy.
Whenever the Bean’d had enough of his buggy, one of us would “do bridges” with him:
After a few (okay, MANY) ups and down and ups and downs he finally conked out in his buggy. It was time for Mr P&P to get our elbow grease on - I don’t think ‘wheelchair access’ was much of a concept when all those tiny, stepped bridges were concocted - but we still had a lovely afternoon admiring the crazy blue-green of the lagoon, the beautiful architecture, and the quiet snore from the buggy.
When the Bean woke up we went to the Piazza San Marco. Obviously. We didn’t fancy doing the Doge’s Palace, the other big ‘must-see’, with a toddler and his post-nap grouches, but wandering around the Piazza taking pictures, laughing at people’s selfie-sticks and pointing out more boats to the toddler (and more trying to stop him from diving into the water) was great fun for everyone.
At this point we found ourselves at the other end of the city to the train station, and so after a long day we followed advice from Cathy Winston of Mummy Travels: take a vaporetto (a water taxi) back. At 7€ per adult these things are pricey, although if you wanted to avoid dragging a buggy over bridges all day you could get a one-day pass for €20 (2, 3 and 7-day passes also exist). Needless to say this was the highlight of the day for the Bean, even though it was by now getting dark and perishing (Venice in winter = cold).
We made it back to Padova, found our car in one piece (we may or may not have found some dodgy bog to stick it in on for the day) and set off back to the warmth and comfort of Il Feudo.
Monday morning was spent offsetting all things city by taking a walk around the premises of our hotel as well as the surrounding countryside. Even in the bareness of late autumn, there is something soothing about rolling hills and neatly lined up vines.
Monday morning was spent offsetting all things city by taking a walk around the premises of our hotel as well as the surrounding countryside. Even in the bareness of late autumn, there is something soothing about rolling hills and neatly lined up vines.
Another nap, another drive, then one final stop: Lago d’Iseo. As one of the smaller of the North Italian lakes this was one we hadn’t been to before, but the town we found had everything we needed for a family of three: stunning views, a big park, and gelato. A lot of gelato.
We had a great weekend, and one I’m proud of too: making sure we see and enjoy as much of Italy while we’re still here is important, and there’s no reason for the toddler to be left out of that. Even if I did have sore arms from wo-manhandling his buggy over all those bridges.
Come say hello:
